Review: Apiary

Where to start. Apiary opened in spring this year and has had a permanent spot in my mind since then. The concept centres around bees and honey, and I think it’s made a wonderful addition to the already incredible group of restaurants we have here.

First impressions, very good. The décor is warm and bright, gorgeous in the evening and easy to tell it would look magical in the sunlight too. Completely empty when I walked in, granted this was the week before Christmas, but it picked up towards the end of my visit and I was happy to see it. Naturally, a cocktail and some olives to start with: the Ah Muzen Cab, a mix of tequila, mezcal, corn liqueur, red pepper, Mexican honey, lime and coriander. An excellent combination, I must say. Every single one of those components had its moment and thank god because they all deserved one. There was a slight chipotle-esque flavour with oakiness and depth, not to mention the delightful smell. The olives along with it were interesting- I’ve said this countless times, but I love a cold, firm olive. These were lightly spiced with maybe cumin or fennel, whatever it was it was a nice change from the regular. The spices didn’t hit until right at the end which was perfect for me because I don’t like cumin or fennel, but I can appreciate them.

 My first picks were the Anchovy Fritti and A.F.C, or ‘Apiary Fried Cauliflower’. I’m a repeat offender when it comes to not reading menu descriptions, so I was pleasantly surprised when the anchovy fritti came out on pretty little leaves of sage. While I concerned this may be a heavy way to begin, these were airy and crisp. My only notes would be to add a touch of acid, and some of the anchovies appeared to have broken and gotten lost somewhere in the cooking process, but anchovies are notoriously fragile. The A.F.C had a hint of smokiness and chilli in the honey. They were fried nicely and once again, weren’t anywhere near as intense as anticipated. The chillis on top were glistening from soaking in honey; I’ve always thought they look beautiful this way, like red gems.

Of course, if there are prawns on a menu I will be having them no questions asked, so the Black Tiger Prawns were a must-try. I had a hard time deciding what else to have given I am only one person and unfortunately do not have the stomach capacity to have one of everything. The Crostini also called to me, but I had to ask for a second opinion when choosing between the Oak Smoked Salmon and Coffee Cured Coppa. The owner let me know of his preference for the Coppa, so that’s what I had. I was initially afraid of the pickled cherries but let me tell you they worked a charm. Out it came in a delicately plated wreath; I’m not sure if festive was the goal, but it felt right for this time of year. So pickled cherries, stilton, and croutons sprinkled on top of a thin layer of coffee cured meat, a trickle of smoked honey porter as a dressing. The tartness of the cherries with salty cheese and the natural flavour of the Coppa was amazing, especially with a big crunch in the torn croutons. I don’t know how often you think about hard croutons, but I think about it a lot, but these gave just the right texture with a little softness in the centre. After my first bite I knew I’d made the right choice trying something new, a lesson learnt.

In between dishes I overheard the owner telling another table Apiary feeds their own bees, which I think adds an immense amount of charm to the entire concept, making it feel all the more special. Having found out they worked for a few big names in the Brighton food scene, the air of class and creativity about the place makes perfect sense.

The Crostini and Black Tiger Prawns were next to come out. Plus a margarita, I couldn’t resist. I had to get into the prawns first- chilli and garlic, a classic pairing for seafood, and of course honey to bring it all together. I find the raw honey flavour often gets lost when heated up, but the Leatherwood Honey was so prominent here and truly put a smile on my face when it hit my palate. It really was the key to completing the dish. I only wish I’d either ordered some bread or asked for a spoon to make the most of the sauce left on the plate.

The Langstroth Margarita was an apt accompaniment with mezcal, cedar & vetiver liqueur, lime, and local Sussex honey. It was deep with a certain wild tinge to it, and according to my notes, ‘possibly the best marg I’ve ever had.’ Also in my notes: ‘came in a great glass.’

Crostini isn’t something I’d go for in a restaurant or ever, for that matter, but that’s because of my personal issue with hard bread. I was however curious to try this- another classic combination, figs, goat’s cheese, honey. I must be honest, I was disappointed to see the honey drizzled on the bottom of the plate, much easier to overlook it that way. I scraped it all up onto the crostini so as not to waste a drop. The cheese was fantastic but a thinner slice would have let the figs shine; the poor things looked beautiful but didn’t get a fair chance at living up to their full potential. Thyme was the finishing touch and gave it a fresh, herbal fragrance.

Now, what am I here for if not to be honest with you, so I think it’s only fair to let you know I found a few items I ordered to be slightly overpriced. I saw a couple of opportunities for refinement in some areas, but restaurants are always finding ways to improve and innovate and I can tell Apiary is constantly doing the same. The cocktails are also just above the average for a good cocktail in Brighton, in my experience anyway. Having said that, they were clearly expertly crafted and well thought-out, and it’s always important to consider the work behind such things.

As full as I was by this point, I’ve recently developed a sweet-tooth, and the first time I saw Apiary’s dessert menu I just knew I was getting my hands on that Honey Toast one way or another. A seasonal addition of a poached pear on top made sense but it wouldn’t have been my first choice. As a lifelong poached pear detester, I ordered it anyway, expecting to eat it with reluctance. Lo and behold, I was proven wrong yet again. The poached pear was soft and cut like butter. Sitting atop a thick slice of sweet, crispy honey toast, it was like a premium French toast. The pear lent a good amount of moisture to the centre of the toast, making it both chewy and crunchy at the same time. It came drizzled with whiskey cream and salted caramel both of which I think there could have been more of, but the entire thing went down a treat along with a glass of a mild white wine. This is the kind of dish that can be adapted to any season, so I hope it remains a permanent fixture on the menu, and I look forward to seeing what they do with it.